The End of an Era

Last night our friends came over for dinner with their three kids. We were feasting on steamed crab ($2.50/pound) and wine when the phone rang. Another friend was calling to say that we'd need to change our plans to swim at the Hotel Sea Cliff the next day because it was in the process of burning down.

We were all stunned. The Sea Cliff is a fixture in Dar es Salaam and particularly for folks who live near here. It's a lovely hotel with a gorgeous pool, restaurants, casino, bowling alley, hair salon, etc. Over the course of the evening we got periodic updates from folks who lived near there or decided to venture over. First we heard it was just the roof, then the whole hotel, then we heard it had spread next door to the Sea Cliff Village--a shopping area with a supermarket, restaurants, bookstore, and other shops. Like all rumors some were true and others were not. From the outside it doesn't look that bad because the walls are still standing but the inside is another story. The good news is that no one was hurt and the fire did not spread to Sea Cliff Village. The bad news is that the hotel is destroyed: all the rooms (which were remodeled only a year ago), the reception, one restaurant, the pool bar are all gone. It remains to be seen if the Karambezi (the restaurant overlooking the ocean) will be salvagable. It might not have been so bad except there is no city water out on the Msasani Penninsula. Everone here gets their water trucked in by large tankers. I heard stories of the fire fighters getting water from the pool and from the storage tanks at the Embassy but it just wasn't enough. I feel so bad for the folks who worked there and for the economic impact of losing a big hotel.

It seems a bit silly to be sad about a building but, of course, places are like that. They are tied with events and memories and thus, they have significance. I stayed at the Sea Cliff for two weeks last year when I came here for work. At that time I never, in a million years, thought we would be moving here. So when we arrived in February and I was able to take my family to the Sea Cliff it was pretty amazing. I have a lot of happy memories tied to the Sea Cliff.

So RIP Hotel Sea Cliff. We'll miss you.

Happy update!!!

Contrary to what I heard earlier, the right wing of Sea Cliff is good enough to open. The casino, Karambezi restaurant, hair salon, and (most importantly) bowling alley are all open!!!